Greenwich is easily one of my favourite parts of London. The centre has a real ‘village feel’ and there’s nothing better than a walk along the river on a sunny day. I’ve walked past the Old Royal Naval College countless times, but never actually taken the time to go in. Until now.
I had no idea how much incredible history lies within its walls. I knew that Henry VIII, arguably one of England’s most notorious kings, had ties to the Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace, but I had no idea he was born here in Greenwich.
In fact, what stands today as the Old Royal Naval College was once Greenwich Palace, a royal residence where not only King Henry VIII was born, but Mary I and Elizabeth I as well. It’s also where Anne Boleyn was arrested before being taken to the Tower of London.
By the late 17th century, the palace had fallen into a state of disrepair, but Queen Mary II had a vision: a hospital for retired sailors, which eventually evolved into the Naval College we see today.
Walking through the grounds (which are free to enter), I was totally enchanted by the architecture. It was designed by the famous architects Sir Christopher Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor, and the buildings are as grand, elegant, and timeless as you’d expect. The symmetry of the domes is gorgeously classic, and the way the colonnades frame the river makes you feel like you’re walking through a living painting.
The real showstopper is The Painted Hall. I wandered into the Undercroft Café for a drink and comfort break, and just had to buy a ticket to see it. As it turns out, you can get two tickets for the price of one when you travel by train so it's great value for money. The ticket includes entry to the Painted Hall, a stunning Victorian Skittle Alley (where you can actually have a go at a game of skittles) and the glorious Chapel of St Peter and Paul. I had no idea how incredible it would all be.
I walked into the Painted Hall and immediately tilted my head back, awe-struck by the incredible artwork. There are kings, gods, and constellations painted across the walls and ceiling, and it is utterly breath-taking. I can see why people call it London’s ‘Sistine Chapel’. Painted over nearly two decades by Sir James Thornhill, the Painted Hall is a celebration of Britain’s history as a naval power, filled with symbolism that rewards you the longer you look. You can spot portraits of monarchs, allegories of victory, and even Thornhill himself tucked away in the corner like a little signature.
The Old Royal Naval College is steeped in history. Admiral Nelson lay in state here after the Battle of Trafalgar, and prisoners of war once marched its grounds. Walking across the lawns, I tried to picture the scene: rows of sailors in uniform, the echo of boots on stone, and the sense of a nation defined by its naval strength.
It’s not all solemn history, though. The site has always had a flair for drama. Its grandeur has made it a favourite of filmmakers, and if you’re a film buff like me, you’ll love knowing this place has been the backdrop for countless films and TV shows. From Les Misérables and Pirates of the Caribbean to Thor: The Dark World and Netflix’s The Crown, its courtyards and colonnades are stars in their own right. You can even take a dedicated film and TV tour to see exactly where the cameras rolled – something firmly on my list for next time.
What really surprised me was how alive the place feels today. The Painted Hall hosts concerts, talks, and late openings, and throughout the year there are open-air cinema nights, live music on the lawns, and even a Christmas market by the river. There’s a small but fascinating visitor centre too, which explains the story of the site and has some brilliant interactive displays.
Special family days and workshops make it feel like a vibrant community hub, not just a heritage site. Each entry ticket lasts a whole year, so I’ll definitely be back to enjoy some of these events.
After wandering through the grounds, I grabbed another drink from the Undercroft Café and went outside to enjoy stunning views of Canary Wharf and the London skyline. It’s such a striking contrast: centuries-old domes and stone arches in the foreground, and the glass towers of modern finance glinting across the Thames.
I always thought I knew London’s landmarks, but the Old Royal Naval College proved me wrong. It’s easy to overlook, but stepping inside feels like discovering a secret treasure. If you don’t have time to visit the ancient landmarks of Italy or just want to avoid the outrageous tourist crowds, the Old Royal Naval College should be top of your list. Next time you’re on the train and see Greenwich on the map, make sure you don’t miss this stop – you won’t regret it.